The Wardrobe Dilemma: Animal or Vegan Leather?

Scrolling through social media, it’s hard to miss the fiery debates around animal leather and the environmental impact of its production. And while nowadays there are other options to this incredibly versatile material, many of us consumers are still confused on what is more ethical: a second-hand leather jacket or a faux one from Zara? As I was rummaging through my wardrobe the other day, I started wondering: Is animal leather always bad? And is vegan leather always the best solution? 

Well … if you are dwelling with the same existential crisis, then you might (hopefully) find this article useful: let’s break the debate down. 

Leather is a material that has stood the test of time – literally. Back in 1300 BC, man realised that animal hides could be turned into durable clothing and shelter. Leather manufacturing then spread to Greece, Egypt and Rome, where the material was commonly used to craft protective armoury and comfortable sandals for the army. Since then, leather has woven itself into human history both as a practical material and a stylish statement.

Even today, leather remains a fashion staple, from distressed leather jackets to exotic handbags: there truly is an option for every occasion. The reason why animal leather is still popular nowadays is its durability and strength, factors increased by the tanning process, which prevents the hide from decaying. In fact, animal leather can last decades, if well-preserved, but can still decompose more easily than its synthetic competitors. Additionally, its unique texture and weight is recognised both by high fashion and streetwear brands globally, presenting itself as one of the most versatile materials. 

However, in a world increasingly concerned with sustainability and ethics, the presence of leather in fashion and design is growingly contested. Concerns have rose regarding the environmental impact of the livestock industry, the primary source of animal hides and currently a major contributor to greenhouse gas emissions, deforestation, and water pollution. On top of that, animal rights activists argue against the brutal slaughter of animals merely for their leather, while human rights activists are concerned about the use of anthracene (carcinogen) as a tanning agent for leather, a process usually happening away from Western consumers.  

Thankfully, there are currently multiple alternatives to animal leather that promise a cruelty-free and eco-friendly solution. But is vegan leather actually better than animal leather? The matter is complex, as both sides present pros and cons. 

Vegan leather, often called synthetic or faux leather, bypasses the system of animal abuse and livestock farming. Instead, it is made from materials like polyurethane, PVC, or innovative plant-based options like pineapple leaves, mushrooms, and cacti. While vegan leather is a cruelty free option which can come very close to the texture and weight of real leather, it presents significant issues. Indeed, many vegan leathers are petroleum-based: while it decreases impact on deforestation, this alternative contributes to microplastic pollution both during its production and disposal. Furthermore, while some vegan leathers last long, the petroleum-based ones deteriorate faster than animal leather, leading to higher replacement rates, extremely complicated due to its synthetic nature. These garments are then quickly dumped in a landfill, where synthetic materials take centuries to decompose. 

In light of growing criticism towards petroleum-based vegan leathers, companies are now investing increasingly more into plant-based alternatives, which seem to merge the pros of animal and synthetic leathers, while avoiding the disadvantages. Amongst the current myriad of options, Piñatex stands out in originality: it is a plant-based leather made from the fibres of pineapple leaves and is able in this way to repurpose agricultural waste and reduce the use of petroleum. Mylo is another great example, as it relies on mycelium, the root structure of mushrooms, easier and faster to grow. Cacti too can now be transformed into leather, as a Mexican brand has recently proven. While these alternatives demonstrate the potential for a greener future, their applicability is dangerously limited, with fast-fashion brands still relying on cheaper, petroleum-based leathers. 

After this historical excursus over animal leather and its alternatives, the original question still lies unanswered: What is better: animal leather or vegan leather?

The debate, as I summarised in this article, is far from straightforward, as both sides present valuable points. While the answer to the dreaded question depends on individual priorities and preferences, it is important to remember that consumers play a vital role in driving meaningful change: sustainable fashion is not just about the materials used, but also about purchasing habits. Extending the life of a product, choosing second-hand items, and supporting brands committed to ethical practices are all viable options to make a positive change.

As technology advances, the gap between traditional and alternative leathers is narrowing. By holding industries accountable, and making informed choices, consumers can influence the fashion system positively, demanding for growing ethical considerations on the part of brands over their use of animal and vegan leathers. In the meantime, whether you rock vintage animal leather or innovative plant-based leather, the solution lies in meaningful and thoughtful choices. 

Words and Illustrations by Ruben Lee (he/him)