The summer before last, I visited a small Italian commune nestled in the Northern region of
Lombardy. There I was publicly shunned. It happened late in the afternoon when I decided
after only one Aperol spritz to traverse the cobbled streets and set out on a pilgrimage of my
own. I was going to journey to the church that sat atop a very steep hill and see if God felt
any closer than he did in the sombre English town I had come from.
Inside, the church was cool and silent. I closed my eyes and imagined the Holy Ghost gliding
by. When I opened them, they fell upon an oil painting of the Madonna and Child, their heads
encircled by two delicate gold leaf halos. Next to a display of candles, I dropped a euro into a
black box and listened to the metallic clink reverberate in the stillness. I tried to light a
candle, but the wick was stubborn and refused to catch the flame.
When I turned towards the stone altar, I noticed that everyone in the church had gathered
together, their eyes fixed in my general direction – a unified congregation of gawkers. Even
Jesus hanging limply on the cross, seemed to muster enough strength to raise his head and
cast a disapproving glance my way.
A little man, whose hair was beginning to recede past his temples, was parting his way
through the bodies like a miniature Moses, hurling a string of what had to be clean
obscenities in his wake. He was soon standing right below my nose. I gathered from the way
he was frantically gesticulating at my chest that it was my top that caused the great offence. It
only covered half of my shoulders. I tried to reason with him but the only Italian words I
knew were “ciao” and “grazie”, neither of which proved particularly helpful. I decided to
feign the ignorant tourist and only just stopped myself from putting on a deep Southern
American accent.
Nothing worked though, he seemed to see right through me, as though the former catholic in
me oozed out. He sensed that I was one of them, or rather had been, that I should’ve known
better than to come here in my indecent state and disrupt the sacred tranquillity. He told me I
had better leave.
“Where are your horns?” he shouted as I turned to go.
“Probably lying around with my pitchfork.” I cried back before storming out of the place.
I wondered if Eve felt as bad as I did then when she was expelled from Eden. I wasn’t
bearing the weight of original sin or anything close to it on my shoulders, but I felt humiliated
and ashamed, acutely aware of my naked shoulders.
Once I had strolled back to the loft I was renting for the summer, I picked up the telephone
and dialled my godmother. She was a godless woman which was one reason we got along so
well. I told her what had happened, that theirs was a God who shivered at the sight of
shoulders. She told me Catholicism was like a red lipstick that it suited some but not others
and that it would never suit me because of my red hair.
I was a lapsed Catholic. I had no business being in a church, searching for something I had so
vehemently rejected. Hadn’t I spent my school years writing angry essays, arguing that
Catholicism was corrupt and in desperate need of castration? Back then, I had immersed
myself in the works of Richard Dawkins and Mary Daly, so deeply that, in my mind, they
became close friends I could call upon at any time. I had spent months trying to speak of God
in the feminine but had ultimately been defeated by centuries worth of scholarship referring
to God in the masculine. It always seemed to lead to confusion anyhow. I remember once,
during an argument, I had said that God was ‘malevolent in her ways’ only for everyone to
assume I was talking about myself.
When I hung up the phone, I noticed a crucifix above the door. It reminded me of the one that
hung in the room where I’d taken Bible classes around the age of eleven. There had been a
girl in the group I had gravitated towards because she had a thick head of hair, just like mine.
I mentioned it to her once, how both of us had such thick hair, but she told me that thickness
didn’t matter. It was the colour of your hair that was important.
"No one in the Bible," she said, "had red hair like yours."
I told her she was wrong. Esau did. She retorted that Esau was a fool, a man with murderous
tendencies—someone who gave up his birthright for a bowl of lentil stew. I shot back that
she probably hadn’t tasted a good lentil stew, then convinced my mother I was too sick to go
back the following week.
I thought about the man with the receding hairline and wondered if he ever cursed God for
not giving him a thicker head of hair. Then I wondered if he might still be cursing me. I had
spent the whole evening on the phone with my godmother, cursing him, and I had never felt
so close to God.
Words and Images by Beatrice Ahern, she/her
This was such an insanely good read!