Wake up baby, Milan Men's Fashion Week has arrived! Held from the 17th to the
21st of January in (well) Milan, this whirlwind of creativity has been my ultimate cure
for the post-holiday slump and the January blues. Though this year’s schedule was
slightly shorter, the shows still delivered in full force, with Prada and Dolce &
Gabbana stealing the spotlight.
Prada's show, led by co-creative directors Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, was a
masterclass in eclecticism. The collection embraced raw, uninhibited, instinctual
dressing, featuring ‘primitive’ faux fur elements, pyjama sets, and cowboy boots.
Backstage, this diverse mix was described as a move towards humanity, and the
runway’s striking design – an intricated tower of scaffoldings designed by architect
Rem Koolhaas – only amplified that vision. A fusion of nightclub lighting and art
nouveau elements set the perfect stage for sharply tailored skinny trousers,
oversized silhouettes, and suits worn without shirts, Prada’s latest attempt at
effortless confidence and breaking the fashion rulebook.
Dolce & Gabbana's presentation took inspiration from the golden age of Italian
cinema, bringing La Dolce Vita to the runway. Models strutted in denim jeans paired
with striking outerwear, from faux fur collars to leather trench coats, perfectly
capturing the glamour and allure of the era. The designers seamlessly mixed casual
daywear with sophisticated evening attire, combining knitwear with contemporary
cargo pants, adorning formal suits with silk scarves, dramatic lapels, and crystal
brooches. This fusion of casual and formal elements paid homage to the brand’s
Italian heritage while embracing modern and youthful sensibilities.
Both collections showcased the designers' ability to blend heritage with innovation,
offering fresh perspectives on men's fashion, and reaffirming, at the same time, Milan
as a global fashion capital. With the fashion world turning its focus to Paris, my must-
watch picks for the upcoming week include Acne Studios, Issey Miyake and Ziggy
Chen.
Words by Mia Kilpatrick she/her
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